

scorpacciata is a word i encountered in the Mario Batali cookbook 'Babbo'. it means to eat not only seasonally, but hyper-seasonally. to consume as much as you can of something, while you can. apricots come to mind. asparagus. heirloom tomatoes. this will be a blog about cooking.... and pop-culture ephemera.... basically the detritus in my brain
Making it is pretty simple and forgiving. You have to heat up milk to make yogurt as it does something to the protein structure. Cream is all fat, no protein, so it's easier. Warming it to room temperature on the stove is best, but using cold cream is fine, too, it will just take longer. So, the jist of the recipe is 1 pint of cream (preferably Straus pasteurized, but Organic Valley ultrapasteurized does work), stir in 2T of buttermilk or yogurt (seems like the bacteria in buttermilk lead to thicker crème fraîche, but could just be the nature of my current yogurt culture), let it sit in a pilot-light-warmed oven for however long it takes -- between overnight and 24 hours or so.
Great interview with Jimmy Cliff, he's in the spotlight cause he just got inducted into the rock and roll hall of fame.
Artichokes. The first time I had a fresh one was on a SDSU baja trip, we picked some out of a field near Ejido Erindira that had been inefficiently harvested. My friend Clay boiled them up for an hour; we did the scraping the bottom of the leaves thing, I don't remember how we ate the hearts. I picked one a couple of days ago off of the plant we have at the community garden, and suspected there might be a better way to cook them.
Pull off the green leaves till you reach the softer yellow ones, trim the sides a little, trim the green off of the stem. I was operating on 1st principles, but was saving all the trimmings for soup, so wasn't that concerned about over-trimming.

The original recipe called for 6 artichokes, submerging them in 6c of extra virgin olive oil. I sliced up mine so they would sit lower in the pan so I could use less oil. Also, I re-read the end of the recipe a little late in the process, you are supposed to cook them on uber-low heat, no bubbles. Didn't seem to hinder the love too much. Cook in oil for 20 min, then let them cool in the oil.
Rice, artichokes, red sauce warmed up in a little bit of the oil. Heaven.
Orange Buttermilk Sherbet:
This is straight out of the David Lebovitz ice cream book, the Perfect Scoop, except I added 2 eggwhites as it was too dense making it using my technique (stickblender instead of ice cream maker). Also converted to weights rather than measures -- so much easier that way.
I've made 3 sherbets/sorbets recently, so 3 posts back to back here. I liked the combo of the orange frozen yogurt and the chocolate sorbet alot. I don't think the orange buttermilk is as good as the lime buttermilk sherbet, but it's still alright. {the Sorbet chronicles}. On with the recipes.
My brother got back from Baja on Friday. He crossed the border at 10pm Thursday, got to my place around 3am, drank beer in my front yard till I woke up. Very considerate of him! This year he brought back tortillas from the market in El Rosario, which isn't ideal, but they are still pretty good. The best tortillas are from farther down in central Baja, Villa Jesus Maria or Guerrero Negro; they make them with manteca (lard) down there, the ones this time were with manteca vegetal -- vegetable shortening. It's funny, he had stocked up on tortillas from G.N., but the wind/weather went bad, so he stayed down a little longer and had to eat them and buy more on the drive out.

Flour tortillas are considered 'yuppie food' in Baja. Corn tortillas are more proletarian (Amy has a great post on this). My dad had a grad student from Mexico City via La Paz, Baja, who explained this to me. I like corn tortillas for tacos, but do prefer flour for enchiladas and quesadillas. He brought back 3 18 packs. We had quesadillas our way Friday night, quesadillas with buffalo on Saturday, and quesadillas + tacos with beans/creme fraiche/chanterelles on Sunday. Quesadillas 'our way' is a recipe we perfected in Baja over many trips. Alas, I haven't taken a picture of them since I began the blog, so no specific post on them -- My brother, Sara and I wolfed down roughly 25 of them in those 3 nights, ate too fast to take a pic.... Quasi-recipe: use a cast iron comal/skillet, medium low heat, lay down a tortilla, add some sliced cheese (queso mennonita is the best), add another tortilla, cover with a lid, flip once after a couple of minutes. Eat by putting a stripe of beans down the center and fold over. Beans this time were adzuki + indian split yellow peas, cooked with epazote, bay leaf, dried chilies. Toasted some cumin and ancho chile powder, olive oil, asafoetida. An onion, didn't have garlic. Deglazed with white wine. Oregano from Baja, a couple of chipotles. Awfully good. Had a couple of hot sauces from Baja, but also a couple of my homemade ones, only one of which has been blogged about. Avocado is great, too, no surprise....
Ok, still sitting on the creme fraiche post. One of these days. Me and Paul had a couple of soft tacos with beans, chanterelle, a couple of dollops of creme fraiche -- analogous to crema in Mexico. Pretty good, though S Bee was not impressed, the creme fraiche was fermented a little too much towards cheese for her dainty stomach....
The article appeared quite a while ago, but I only netflixed it fairly recently. I think I'd seen it awhile ago at my folks' place on the Sundance Channel. Re-watching it was great. It was filmed in Portland, OR. The 3 main characters were great (the guy, the girl, the assistant). Blahblahblah. The Onion article does a really good job of explaining the charm of the movie. Highly recommended.
Pretty cool article. Really like this pic of Lance Armstrong. Crazy eyes.
I enjoyed this list muchly. Growing a winter beard was in the top 5.
I'm getting a bunch of prints in the mail soon from Pacific Editions. One of them is by an artist named Mike Dangeli. I like the look of his work, so googled him, and found this great article.
Another, by the same blogger
Not about Julia. An OnionAV column on "film and tv-induced food cravings." The two main tenets of the blog (food and pop-culture) unite!!!!!!!
There's a bit of a backlog of posts, I wanted the Julia/Jacques posts to be back-to-back, but had a hard time writing the Julia one. OnionAV had a great writeup of Werner Herzog movies last week. I've talked about him on the blog before (here and here), but they do a better job, with embedded links to trailers and such.
She also mentioned that she really liked rubber stamps...
I've just finished reading two food memoirs, 'the Apprentice' by Jacques Pépin and 'My Life in France' by Julia Child. The confluences are interesting: a frenchman who came here, an american who went there. They went through the same port, Le Havre in Normandy, though Julia went in '48, he in '59. I'll write up Julia's book in a day or 2; today Jacques' book as I just finished it, so it's fresh. He is a wonderful writer, especially when you consider that english isn't his first language. But he's been in the States since '59; went to Columbia University to learn english, and got a BA and MA there, too; and has an american wife... Some highlights, I'll try not to give too much away, cause there are some surprises and some really funny anecdotes/jokes:
Got an email from Black Tusk Gallery just now, about how a canadian skeleton racer who won gold did it wearing a helmet designed by a NWC artist. Cool.
Had a nice Sunday evening. The pizza dough had been made atleast a week earlier, lots of long, slow rising time in the fridge; perhaps the best dough ever. Also part of it was King Arthur bread flour. Epic. Notice the bubble in the pic below... The usual red sauce, some old stinky cheddar, and a pepper from the garden. With an Alaskan Amber, a fine beer.
Zombieland came very highly recommended. First time through I liked it, except for the zombies. Not a horror fan. But the comedy was great. Second time through I loved it -- the thing with horror is the surprise/anticipation scares you, once I knew what to expect I could better enjoy the rest of the movie. The Bill Murray bits were great (yes, bits, there is a brief thing after the credits that is epic); I'm not sure which situation was funnier, this one, or the one in Coffee & Cigarettes where he plays a waiter that GZA and RZA recognize (youtube). Actually, I just rewatched the C&C scene, they are quite similar, he plays himself, and some of his classic movies are mentioned in both scenes. Anyway, Zombieland is great.
Obviously this isn't from Zombieland, the pics from it are a little gross for a quasi-food blog. Lost in Translation is a pretty solid movie, and this was a cool scene.
Groovy, 2 days in a row for new cult canon articles. This one about Serenity, a movie I very much enjoyed. My brother had it on dvd, and I saw it before Firefly, the tv show that it was providing the coda for. blahblahblah, I've already done a post about Firefly afterall...
OnionAV has a new cult canon article about Richard Kelly's 3rd movie, the Box, today, I don't think I posted the articles for DD or Southland Tales before, so here they are, all in one post. DD is epic; Southland is a bit frustrating, but I loved the lipsynching scene with Timberlake; haven't seen the Box yet...
As mentioned in the last post, I stumbled upon a sweet website just now, with 22 songs from the sessions for Nashville Skyline. They are in 4 posts: 1, 2, 3, 4. I'm over the moon. A different guy posted a slightly different boot from the sessions, a couple of songs are different. The interweb is a good thing.
Fresh Air replayed an interview with Johnny Cash from 1997 last week, on his birthday. It is epic. They also redid an interview with Rick Rubin about the American Recordings sessions that is pretty darn listenable. As an aside, I trolled google for a while to find a good pic of Johnny, and found a website that had uploaded boots of the Dylan/Johnny Cash sessions for Nashville Skyline. I am so unbelievably stoked right now!
I feel weird about posting semi-frivolous pop culture things, bumping the amazing Chile earthquake pic down, but honestly, this is an amazing interview. He's a good actor, 'the Accidental Tourist' is one of my favorites, but he's a pretty deep, real person, too. His upbringing is fascinating, and the Brasil story is nuts.