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Tuesday, June 8, 2010

I am in love...

... with Eggbeater, a foodblog. I just found it, cause I was doing research for a post about noyaux -- stone fruit kernels. Been meaning to do that post for a while. Anywho, the blogger is an amazing writer, the kind of food writer that I love: really long-winded, imprecise instructions, but the info is there. The rhythm of the writing is beautiful. There are also poems on the blog. The blogger is a pastry chef/food professional, who began the blog (in 2005) while consulting/doing part-time restaurant jobs, so they had some extra time to impart wisdom on the interweb. I think I'm going to kill a ton of time on the blog this weekend. The current post is about lemon marmalade and it is gold, solid gold.

The writing voice is incredibly strong, even at the beginning. This post is going to grow and grow and grow as I try to highlight the most interesting posts....

On pizza/pizza toppings. Wedgewood Stove. Egg babies. On cooking for Al Gore.

Stone fruit 2005 (includes this: Food is delicious and political. As easy as it sounds in this complicated world, we vote with our dollar and our mouths. Restaurants serve raspberries and asparagus in winter because many of us order and eat it). stone fruit 2006. stone fruit 2007.

Michael Pollan, the cornification of America.

On butterscotch (a little snarky, a lot interesting). On butterscotch pudding. more butter.

On Heat, by Bill Bufford (I love this book, but, alas, read it before the blog began, so I've only mentioned it in passing, if at all).

On leeks braised in olive oil.

'Bright and dangerous desserts' includes: When Thomas placed me at Bouchon he explained that anybody can wow a diner with food they don't recognize. Fantastical creations with disparate ingredients can surprise and delight (or dismay) but they don't trigger our body's memory of what "it should taste like." He explained to me on the deck of his house that what I was being asked to do at Bouchon was much harder than I might know. Interesting.

On pie. wonderful, wonderful post. Crisp topping. GF crisp topping. Cobbler. On strawberry shortcake. Yellow cake. Pumpkin Pie. Caramel cake, caramel cake tips. Pavlova. Rhubarb. CREPES. Homemade ice cream. Coconut cream pie. Puff Pastry. 'Madeira' cake.

on flour/what gluten does, and a link to more great info.

On Pierre Herme macaroons : Pierre Herme is not afraid. Of the French Pastry Mafia. Not afraid of French Pastry History. He knows the classics. But he knows how to break the rules.

Goat yogurt granite. Lemon Sherbet. Mandarinquats.

In this post:
Over and over, here on Eggbeater, I teach you the whys as well as the hows so that when you are peering out from both hands at The Next Recipe Challenge in your kitchen, you can place both hands on your hip and yell, proudly,

"You ain't the boss of me! No Sir! I am an Independent Cook! I CAN bake! I CAN cook! I CAN saute! I CAN braise and swirl and roast and mince and sweat and caramelize! I am one good-looking, confident bad-ass and you-- YOU THERE RECIPE-- You are not my ruler! Word."
love it! There are some beautiful images in the post, too.

humor. humor #2 - peeling tiny tomatoes.

Food blogger winner lists. 2005. 2006. 2007. Links to other food blogs.

There are lots of posts about the restaurant industry. This one about chef/owners who still cook is interesting. Being a sous chef. Sustainability of the industry. Getting your foot in the door. Menu changes.

On cherry pits (noyaux) -- this post is how I found the blog. On cherry noyaux icecream.

In the mango post: In grade school I lived in a rain forest for a spell and if I know nothing else, I know what a mango should smell and look like when it's ripe. I spent many days sitting in mango trees eating everything within reach. Nice.

On chocolate desserts:

So pastry chefs like me. Completely uninterested in cliches. So over warm chocolate cake they could plotz, are faced with the dilemma. What will their chocolate dessert be?

Because you know what, dear dear readers of eggbeater? Your chocolate dessert will sell even if it's the worst plate you construct. Diners will eat salmon and tuna until even farmed fish are extinct. And they will order chocolate even if all the other components are ones they despise. They will move aside garnishes, sauces, flourishes and innovations. To get to the heart of the matter. The important bit.

You guessed it. Chocolate. uh huh.

I dig the bit about farmed fish, wish it weren't so....

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Update: I'm all caught up. There's a ton of interesting stuff on eggbeater. Enjoy the links

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